Nafplio has a really large number and range of restaurants. The fact that the town is a favourite for Greeks on weekend breaks means the quality is usually high. We've been visiting for around twenty years and some of those below are old favourites.
On recent visits we've branched out a bit and explored some tavernas outside the old town, in the suburb of Pronia and the new town. These tend to have less tourists and be more neighbourhoody, but they are very approachable and make an interesting change to the ones in the town centre. If you are staying in the old town then these are a bit of a walk, but none are very far away. There's information about four of them at the bottom of this page.
13 Staikopoulo:this is the street with a number of restaurants just off Syntagma Square
In December 2015 we had beetroot, aubergine dip, stuffed pepper and tomato and roast pork, along with two wines, for 27 euros. We were given a free plate of apple slices and honey at the end of the meal.
We first came here 20 years ago and it really hasn’t changed much since. The same people are still running it, and it feels like a Nafplio institution. It’s a real old style Greek taverna, with good food, a warm welcome and no airs or graces. The food is inexpensive, unpretentious and tasty.
In the summer there are tables in the alley outside, and in the winter it is cosy inside.
It's one of those places that you can settle in to for the whole evening. We keep coming back.
32 Papanikolou: Parallel to the main street between Syntagma and the bus station but and nearer the fort
We had beetroot salad with skordalia (garlic dip), brocoli on a bed of rocket; and we both had the roast pork and roast potatoes. With 2 wines this came to 28 euros. We were also given two christmas biscuits each at the end of the meal.
A new find but an immediate favourite. It's a small, old fashioned, family run taverna.
There are about half a dozen tables inside, and tables out along the pavement in the summer.
The food was really good - we thought some of the best we've had here, and everything was also a bit cheaper than elsewhere. There wasn't a big selection (best to ask what is available today) but it was all freshly cooked and really tasty. Although they did all the Greek staples they also offered us a salad of rocket and feta which is more unusual.
It is in an old building in one of the picturesque little narrow back streets of Nafplio. Inside, there are simple wooden tables and old pictures of Nafplio on the walls, along with a few random scenes of Swiss Alps.
The couple who run it treat it a bit like their front room, sitting round the TV when things are quiet (the sound was off and a radio playing). They were equally matter of fact dealing with our basic Greek and giving tourist advice to a couple of Americans. When the football came on and we showed interest in the scores, everyone in the taverna joined in a brief discussion.
It was fairly quiet, although the town itself was very busy over the xmas holiday period. We were here early, at 7.30pm, as Alan had a cold, so were outside of Greek eating times, but we've walked past at other points and not seen anyone in here. It's tucked away a bit in the back streets, so this might be why - it also might get busier in the summer.
It reminded us a little of the Fanaria in style, and we'd certainly come back here.
30 Vasilios Olgas, which runs parallel to the seafront, about two blocks back.
In December 2014 we had split pea dip(fava), broccoli with melted cheese, beetroot with garlic dip (skordalia), keftedes and two small bottles of retsina. They gave us some very tasty orange cake, along with some sliced apples, for desert. It cost 28 euros.
We discovered this for the first time in December 2014, and really liked it. It's in the pretty side streets behind Boubilianis Street. These streets have recently been pedestrianised, which is means there are no parked cars, and the outside space has been snapped up by tavernas. The Omorfi Tavernaki and Byzantino (both of which we like - there are more details about them below) are in this area, along with a scattering of others. In winter they have a large room inside, plainly but pleasantly decorated. There are also some tables and chairs outside, along with space heaters, and people were eating outside in December. In warm weather all the action moves outside.
The restaurant is run by a group of friends, and the food, according to their website, is mainly seasonal and local. Everything we had was very tasty and fresh, and the people running it were friendly and helpful. We felt very comfortable and relaxed here, and will definitely come back.
When we were here in December 2014 it filled up quickly from about 8pm, with a lot of family groups. It seems to be a popular place with locals and also gets good ratings on Trip Advisor.
In Vasilios Olgas, a few doors down from the Aiolos.
In December 2014 we had a large salad plate with three separate salads (cabbage, lettuce, tomato and cucumber); rolled chicken in a mustard sauce and chicken souvlaki. They gave us some sliced apples and kiwi fruit for dessert. We had their house rose wine, which was fine. It came to 32 euros.
This is a small, cosy and pretty taverna on the corner of one of the criss-cross of narrow streets behind the harbour front. Like the Aiolos, they have tables and chairs out on the street all year round, along with space heaters.
We’ve been there several times over the years and always enjoy it. The food is consistently good, they have traditional music playing, and the people are friendly. It’s a popular place, and is usually fairly busy from about 8pm. They do the usual range of dishes plus a number of specialities.
This is in Vasilis Alexandros, which is a couple of blocks back from the seafront, close to a cluster of other tavernas including the Ormorfi Tavernaki. It's right next door to the apartment we stayed in.
We had horta (boiled greens); melitsanasalta (aubergine dip); chicken fricasse and chicken souvlaki and wine for 36euros.
We came here on Christmas eve, when there was live music and the place was full with family groups. We really enjoyed it - the music was great, laika and rembetika songs which were clearly familiar to most of the other customers, who would sing along as the mood took them.
They advertise live music every Saturday. When we went it started at around 8.30pm, which is very early by Greek standards, and was still going strong when we left at about 11.45pm. The place started to fill up around 9.30pm. It might all happen later in summer.
The Byzantino does an unusual range of food, including snitzels, but also manages all the usual Greek staples. We were given hot, fried bread rolls (nicer than that sounds!)- a bit like loukomides but not sweet. The chicken fricasse was a casserole of chicken, carrot, corgette and onion, in a vaguely spicy sauce.We've discovered that the house red wine is usually local, from Nemea, and it generally much better than the white. Lots of people were watering the red wine down, which worked well for me as well.
The Byzantino is in an old house, and fairly simply but pleasantly decorated. It isn't very big - about 10 tables. In the summer the small streets around here fill up with tables from all the surrounding tavernas, and it can get very busy. At this time of year it's quiet, and we'd not gone into the Byzantino earlier in our stay as it never had more than a couple of customers. The live music was obviously an enticement. Having been once, and enjoyed it, we'd go back even if it was fairly quiet, as the food was good,the staff very friendly and there is a very relaxed atmosphere overall.
On Vasilis Amalias,the road that runs from the school down to the library. The Epi'skene is on your right shortly after the school.
We had red peppers stuffed with feta; beetroot salad - grated beetroot mixed with garlic and mayonnaise; potato salad - boiled potatoes with onion, capers, oil and vinegar; and spetsofi - spicy sausage in a tomato sauce with onions and red peppers. We had a couple of jugs of wine and would recommend the red (the white was very bland). It came to 36 euros.
This is a small mezedopolia, with half a dozen tables inside and a few on the pavement outside.
The name means 'on stage' and the walls are covered with old theatre programmes and posters and there are shelves of books. This gives it a slightly arty, alternative feeling.
It's very relaxed and friendly, the sort of place where people sit and talk all evening over a jug of wine. The food was excellent, really tasty, with a good range of interesting mezes. It's a little more expensive than some of the other places, but there's not a lot in it.
Top left corner of Filellion Square, close to the Hotel Bretagne. This small square is just before you get to the pedestrian walk along the seafront, where all the cafes are.
We had; lettuce salad (marouli). This was very fresh and flavourful, with spring onions, olives and a couple of dried tomatoes; aubergine dip (melitsana salata) – chunky bits of aubergine with walnut topping and tomatoes; beef in tomatoes with pasta – this was really tender meat cooked for ages in a casserole with tomatoes and cheese. Plus a spinach and rice dish – lots of spinach and slightly spicy. 1 ½ wines – the red was nicer than the white. Came to 31 euros.
We were attracted to this taverna because, on a December night with the rain hammering down when most places were empty, there were several groups of people inside.
As the evening went on it got busier and busier and when we left at around 10.30pm there were people waiting for tables. There was a good mix of people in here, from family groups to people working on their laptops. We even spotted our waiter from the Omorfi Taverna on a night out.
There is a small terrace outside, and a balcony upstairs as well as a reasonable sized main room. The décor is traditional, but the music wasn’t - they had the radio tuned to a jazz station on the night we were there.
It advertises itself as an Italian restaurant, and does do pizzas and pasta, but also has all the usual Greek dishes, and this seemed to be what most people were eating. The portions were HUGE. We could have easily ordered one less dish. We noticed lots of people taking their left-overs home, so did the same and enjoyed them for lunch the following day!
The food was really tasty and good value, common greek dishes with some embellishments. I’m often a bit doubtful about any fancying up of greek dishes, but this worked well.
Porou 5, Pronia. To get here head straight up 25 Martiou - it's signposted as the road to the Palimidi fort, and is a long street that starts close to the bus station. A good landmark is the large church on the hill, which is at the top of the street. Walk up 25 Martiou to Kolokotroni Street and turn right. There is a bit of a maze of small streets around here, but basically you need to go up another couple of blocks, until you see the sign for O Pseiras in a small street ahead of you.
We had boiled greens (horta), fried corgettes, a pork chop and grilled chicken with an oil, lemon and mustard sauce. We drank rose wine, and were give some christmas biscuits at the end of the meal. It came to 34 euros.
This is a nice, traditional, family run taverna tucked away in the side streets. In winter they have a cosy wood fire, and in summer there are tables outside.
Inside there is basically just one small room, with half a dozen or so tables. There is a laid-back atmosphere - on a quiet night in December it felt a little like someone's front room. The food is good, fresh and tasty. Despite being a bit off the beaten track they are used to dealing with tourists, and have proved popular with people who have found their way up there. They've got a web-site here and get good ratings on Trip Advisor.
Plateia Agiou Konstantinou, in the Neo Byzantium area of town. From the roundabout at the junction of the Argos and Tolon roads, take the Argos Road out of town. The fourth turning on your right is Chrisostomou, follow this for a minute or two into a small square with a church, and the restaurant is on your left. It's around a 15 minute walk from the Nafplio bus station.
In December 2015 we had a huge plate of chicken and chips in lemon sauce, sausage, cucumber and tomato salad and fried courgettes with garlic sauce, plus two wines. It came to 25 euros - and we could have easily have managed with less food!
This is a another 'new town' restaurant - a little way out of town, but worth the walk. It's situated on a pleasant square, on which there is also an old-fashioned cafe. There are tables outside in the summer. In the winter there is a cozy indoors, with a wood fire, as well as an 'outside' area with space heaters.
This is a very neighbourhoody place - probably particularly in the winter. We went here on a Saturday night in December 2014, and everyone else there seemed to know each other and have been to the place a few times before.
They had menus in English, so the summer must bring some tourists. Two efficient and friendly young men - who spoke good English - were serving, while an older couple were cooking and overseeing.
The place has a traditional, laid back atmosphere, with Rembetika and other Greek music playing on the radio, and groups of Greeks having a good time. We really liked it.
The food was really nice and very good value - the portions were huge and we couldn't eat everything we had.
It does a lot of meze dishes, including a good selection of fish dishes. Most of the other people in the restaurant seemed to be sharing huge plates of boiled mutton, which we hadn't spotted on the menu at all! The next time we went, everyone was eating huge plates of seafood pasta.
Profiti Ilia 12, Nafplio 21100, Greece (+30) 27523 06702
A bit complicated to describe where this is, though it isn't actually that difficult to find. Check it out on google maps. It's about a half hour walk from the centre of town.
In December 2015 we had grilled vegetables in a nice dressing, tasty fried potatoes, local sausages and excellent chicken steak plus a litre of rosé for 30 euros
We first tried this place in December 2015, when we were staying in an apartment quite close by. It's a family run place, in a rather beautifully converted old stables.
To Stablos is in the new town, on the wide suburban street of Profiti Ilia, the only old building amongst lots of modern apartments. This street leads up to the hill of the same name.
We really liked it here, and could see it becoming a firm favourite.
The people running it are very welcoming and friendly, there's a laid back, local atmosphere, and the food was fresh, homemade and tasty.
There is a cosy open fire inside in the winter, and a large garden for the summer.
In Greek style, it's quiet until at least 9pm, with people coming in to eat until late in the evening. We were very much the first arrivals at 8.30pm, but this was fine and we were able to settle in while it filled up around us.
It does get tourists (it was getting really good ratings on Trip Advisor), and isn't difficult to manage - menus in English and the people who run it speak English. However, the substance of its business appears to be local, with what are clearly loyal, regular customers. This gives it a different atmosphere to the tavernas in the old town.
A 10 minute stroll from the bus station, on your left (heading out of town) at the bottom of 25th Martiou
Lovely, large mixed salad, corgette balls, grilled chicken and wine for 20 euros
A very nice traditional mezze place, which seems to do a particularly good trade in those long late lunches loved by the Greeks. It's not open every evening, and closes at 11.30 when it does open - there's a notice on the door listing their opening hours.
It's got a big inside with lots of paintings on the walls, and individually painted metal tables. There are also seats on the pavement outside.
The corgette balls were a bit stodgy and I wouldn't go for these again, but the rest of the food was really tasty. Friendly staff, local, relaxed atmosphere.